Walking the Wainwright Way: A Journey of Discovery Along England's Coast to Coast Path
Soft breezes danced across Innominate Tarn, sending ripples through its tranquil waters. From my rocky perch atop Haystacks, I gazed out at the breathtaking beauty of Buttermere and Crummock Water, with Pillar and Great Gable looming majestically in the distance. It was a moment of serene contemplation, broken only by the indignant croaking of ravens, who seemed to disapprove of my presence on their eyrie.
As I pondered the majesty of this Lakeland landscape, I found myself drawn to two very different figures: Alfred Wainwright and Rishi Sunak. While one is a legendary hiker and cartographer, the other is a modern-day politician. Yet, in a surprising twist, both men have brought me to this same spot.
Wainwright's Coast to Coast path, which he first sketched on a map over half a century ago, has become Britain's most popular multi-day trail. Spanning 190 miles through the Lake District, Yorkshire Dales and North York Moors national parks, it attracts thousands of walkers each year. Despite its popularity, however, the route was previously marked on OS Maps only partially and not always following public right-of-way paths.
Enter Rishi Sunak, whose constituency encompasses part of the route. He campaigned for its designation as a national trail, which has now been granted. With £5.6m funding from Natural England, the project aims to upgrade infrastructure, improve signposting and waymarking with the distinctive acorn symbol, appoint dedicated trail officers, and address legal issues related to land access.
As I set out on my own journey along the Coast to Coast path, accompanied by my partner Sarah, we embarked on 12 days of walking, sleeping in different B&Bs each night. We faced exhilarating hills, exhausting valleys, and breathtaking scenery at every turn. The improvements made to the route were evident from the start, with repairs to trails around Ennerdale Water and Honister Pass.
We also discovered new features such as heavy-duty stepping stones protecting precious peat and delicate moss ecosystems on Nine Standards Rigg. In Swaledale village of Keld, we followed a newly realigned path to lead-mining relics at Gunnerside Gill, an enchanting place where the remains of pit buildings, channels, and smelters only added to the magic.
Beyond Richmond's castle, we traversed the flat Vale of Mowbray, entering the North York Moors national park. As we climbed through Scarth Wood, tracing the northern scarp of the Cleveland Hills, improvements such as new National Trail signs and replaced stiles with gates benefited not just long-distance hikers but also local people.
Perhaps the most poignant moment came on my final day in Little Beck Wood, where I followed May Beck to Falling Foss waterfall. In this tranquil Arcadia of mossy boulders, ferns, soaring shale cliffs, and chiming birdsong, I joined laughing families on stone paths laboriously laid by Bernie and volunteers.
As I reflected on the journey, Angela Hobson, Yorkshire Dales Coast to Coast project manager, beamed with pride. She recalled taking her daughter to White Mossy Hill and saying, "You'll be able to walk over this with your children, and they'll be able to walk over it with their grandchildren." And she added, "I helped build it."
Wainwright's legacy has been refreshed, and I couldn't help but feel grateful for the role he played in bringing me to this stunning landscape. As for Rishi Sunak, his efforts have made a tangible difference, ensuring that walkers can enjoy the beauty of England's Coast to Coast path with greater ease.
For those considering tackling the Coast to Coast path, there are various itineraries available, including a 14-day option from £1,579, which includes B&B accommodation, luggage transfers, and route information. Whether you're a seasoned hiker or just starting out, this incredible journey has something for everyone.
Soft breezes danced across Innominate Tarn, sending ripples through its tranquil waters. From my rocky perch atop Haystacks, I gazed out at the breathtaking beauty of Buttermere and Crummock Water, with Pillar and Great Gable looming majestically in the distance. It was a moment of serene contemplation, broken only by the indignant croaking of ravens, who seemed to disapprove of my presence on their eyrie.
As I pondered the majesty of this Lakeland landscape, I found myself drawn to two very different figures: Alfred Wainwright and Rishi Sunak. While one is a legendary hiker and cartographer, the other is a modern-day politician. Yet, in a surprising twist, both men have brought me to this same spot.
Wainwright's Coast to Coast path, which he first sketched on a map over half a century ago, has become Britain's most popular multi-day trail. Spanning 190 miles through the Lake District, Yorkshire Dales and North York Moors national parks, it attracts thousands of walkers each year. Despite its popularity, however, the route was previously marked on OS Maps only partially and not always following public right-of-way paths.
Enter Rishi Sunak, whose constituency encompasses part of the route. He campaigned for its designation as a national trail, which has now been granted. With £5.6m funding from Natural England, the project aims to upgrade infrastructure, improve signposting and waymarking with the distinctive acorn symbol, appoint dedicated trail officers, and address legal issues related to land access.
As I set out on my own journey along the Coast to Coast path, accompanied by my partner Sarah, we embarked on 12 days of walking, sleeping in different B&Bs each night. We faced exhilarating hills, exhausting valleys, and breathtaking scenery at every turn. The improvements made to the route were evident from the start, with repairs to trails around Ennerdale Water and Honister Pass.
We also discovered new features such as heavy-duty stepping stones protecting precious peat and delicate moss ecosystems on Nine Standards Rigg. In Swaledale village of Keld, we followed a newly realigned path to lead-mining relics at Gunnerside Gill, an enchanting place where the remains of pit buildings, channels, and smelters only added to the magic.
Beyond Richmond's castle, we traversed the flat Vale of Mowbray, entering the North York Moors national park. As we climbed through Scarth Wood, tracing the northern scarp of the Cleveland Hills, improvements such as new National Trail signs and replaced stiles with gates benefited not just long-distance hikers but also local people.
Perhaps the most poignant moment came on my final day in Little Beck Wood, where I followed May Beck to Falling Foss waterfall. In this tranquil Arcadia of mossy boulders, ferns, soaring shale cliffs, and chiming birdsong, I joined laughing families on stone paths laboriously laid by Bernie and volunteers.
As I reflected on the journey, Angela Hobson, Yorkshire Dales Coast to Coast project manager, beamed with pride. She recalled taking her daughter to White Mossy Hill and saying, "You'll be able to walk over this with your children, and they'll be able to walk over it with their grandchildren." And she added, "I helped build it."
Wainwright's legacy has been refreshed, and I couldn't help but feel grateful for the role he played in bringing me to this stunning landscape. As for Rishi Sunak, his efforts have made a tangible difference, ensuring that walkers can enjoy the beauty of England's Coast to Coast path with greater ease.
For those considering tackling the Coast to Coast path, there are various itineraries available, including a 14-day option from £1,579, which includes B&B accommodation, luggage transfers, and route information. Whether you're a seasoned hiker or just starting out, this incredible journey has something for everyone.