The Cornish Coastal Path had changed me for good; it was a discovery I returned to again and again over the years. However, what really drew me in were the seaside villages that dotted its route – places like St Ives and Sennen Cove – where I could find a different kind of beauty, one that wasn't as wild or untamed.
I remember being in St Ives on my first visit to Cornwall, feeling unwell and burnt out after a soul-destroying job. I had just turned 25 and was struggling to make ends meet. On the other hand, there was something soothing about a walk along the coastal path. It reminded me of a passage from a Nabokov story where a bachelor discovers a configuration of elements that reveals and fulfils a longing deeply buried within him.
It was only later, when I stumbled upon the charming seaside village of Portscatho, that I truly found my place in Cornwall. The village has a unique charm – perhaps it's the gentle way its Georgian houses overlook the harbour, or the fact that the sea is always close but never overpowering. It's this balance that makes Portscatho so special.
In winter, the village takes on an even more magical quality. I love how the clocks change and we're meant to stay indoors watching whatever's done well at the Emmys, but are often still on the beach at 5 pm when the clear night sky brings out its wares. There's something about being in Portscatho during the winter months that feels like coming home – a feeling of being at the edge of the world where I can finally relax.
I must admit, my love for Portscatho can sometimes seem embarrassing to me. But it's hard not to feel drawn to this place when it offers everything I need: a beautiful beach, a quaint village, and stunning views of the sea. There are plenty of other seaside villages in Cornwall that offer similar charms, but none quite like Portscatho.
What redeems my love for Portscatho is that I prefer its winter months to the summer ones. While many people flock to the beaches during the warmer months, I enjoy being in Portscatho when it's quieter and more peaceful. It's a feeling of being alone with nature, where I can truly unwind.
In the end, my love for Portscatho is not about the wild beauty of the sea or the rugged coastline – although those are certainly part of its appeal. It's about the village itself, with its gentle way and comforting familiarity. When I turn down the steep road into the village at the end of a long drive from London, I'm struck by how beautiful it looks – like two roads extending outwards from either side of the Plume pub, embracing me as I arrive.
For me, Portscatho is more than just a seaside village – it's home.
I remember being in St Ives on my first visit to Cornwall, feeling unwell and burnt out after a soul-destroying job. I had just turned 25 and was struggling to make ends meet. On the other hand, there was something soothing about a walk along the coastal path. It reminded me of a passage from a Nabokov story where a bachelor discovers a configuration of elements that reveals and fulfils a longing deeply buried within him.
It was only later, when I stumbled upon the charming seaside village of Portscatho, that I truly found my place in Cornwall. The village has a unique charm – perhaps it's the gentle way its Georgian houses overlook the harbour, or the fact that the sea is always close but never overpowering. It's this balance that makes Portscatho so special.
In winter, the village takes on an even more magical quality. I love how the clocks change and we're meant to stay indoors watching whatever's done well at the Emmys, but are often still on the beach at 5 pm when the clear night sky brings out its wares. There's something about being in Portscatho during the winter months that feels like coming home – a feeling of being at the edge of the world where I can finally relax.
I must admit, my love for Portscatho can sometimes seem embarrassing to me. But it's hard not to feel drawn to this place when it offers everything I need: a beautiful beach, a quaint village, and stunning views of the sea. There are plenty of other seaside villages in Cornwall that offer similar charms, but none quite like Portscatho.
What redeems my love for Portscatho is that I prefer its winter months to the summer ones. While many people flock to the beaches during the warmer months, I enjoy being in Portscatho when it's quieter and more peaceful. It's a feeling of being alone with nature, where I can truly unwind.
In the end, my love for Portscatho is not about the wild beauty of the sea or the rugged coastline – although those are certainly part of its appeal. It's about the village itself, with its gentle way and comforting familiarity. When I turn down the steep road into the village at the end of a long drive from London, I'm struck by how beautiful it looks – like two roads extending outwards from either side of the Plume pub, embracing me as I arrive.
For me, Portscatho is more than just a seaside village – it's home.